
Known as the sport of kings, he'enalu (or ‘wave-sliding') was a sacred yet popular activity amongst the royalty of the Hawaiian Islands. For us less regal types in the modern day, surfing is not only a fun way to escape the summer heat – it offers benefits for both your physical health and general well being.
Although difficult at first, if you can get past the initial learning stages and get to your feet, before you know it you'll be a wave junkie – up at dawn every morning in anticipation of that special gliding feeling.
Like a lot of things, surfing is best done with a friend, or group of friends. Even better is taking a few lessons with a surf school. By learning from experienced surfers you can fast-track your development, as instructors can identify and correct common mistakes and teach you proper technique. Furthermore, they will offer a more relaxed and a safer introduction to the ocean, and teach you the fundamentals of ocean awareness and safety.
Besides the sublime feeling of being out in nature, surfing also offers benefits for your health. Mentally, it can serve as a release from stress and tension – what better way to forget your worries by focusing your energies and riding the ocean's waves (what a cool thing).
Physically, it also offers a number of pluses:
Build some upper body strength before you start
As surfing involves a lot of upper body strength, both to paddle and to get from a lying down position to standing up, improving your upper body strength before you start will definitely help (particularly for ladies). Try swimming, or push-ups.
Always practise safety first
Be a strong swimmer, know how to read currents and rips and never put yourself in dangerous situations. Know your limits.
Use equipment that is suitable for your ability
A longer board with more buoyancy will make it easier to paddle and definitely easier to stand up. Choose a board that also suits your weight and height.
Don't scare yourself
Beginners sometimes start in conditions that can be intimidating, which ends up putting them off altogether. Start in the white-water when the conditions are calm and progress from there. If you start in conditions not suitable to your level, you might scare yourself.
Take small steps
Focus on one element of surfing each time you go out, and make that the goal for the session. Before you know you will have a wealth of experience to take with you into the ocean.
Be patient and have fun
Don't be too hard on yourself if things aren't working – after all, it's supposed to be fun. If something isn't progressing, go back to the beach and take a break, or try another day. Eventually, with enough persistence, you'll get that gliding feeling, and then, never look back.